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These bars are ideal for 4wd and camping as they allow you the mount accessories along the full width of the rack and right out to the outermost point of the bar, which is perfect for awnings. Through bar roof racks stick out beyond the leg of the roof rack to give you more space to mount equipment to. * Subject to manufacturers permitted roof load rating Through Bars Flush bars are great for smaller vehicles and for carrying items like kayaks, SUP or surfboards, rooftop luggage carriers and other items that don’t require too much width. They curve up and in from the sides of the car creating a neat, tidy and streamlined finish. * Subject to manufacturers permitted roof load rating Flush Barsįlush bars end at the leg of the roof rack and don’t extend beyond the roof-line of the vehicle.
Rail bars are also very easy to install with no extra tools required besides a tape measure. They are one of the neatest roof racks available and add very little extra height to the overall height of the vehicle. Rail Bars sit between factory supplied rails on the roof of a vehicle. The innovative Prorack Smartfoot system adapts and transfers simply to virtually any similar sized vehicle, making it easy and inexpensive to transfer your existing crossbars to a different car. Prorack S-Wing roof racks are super adaptable. The S-Wing is perfect for those who are looking for the factory look to those wanting to carry more gear.
The Prorack S-Wing is a flexible and stylish roof rack solution. It is a quality top and now my 2004 Mitsubishi looks 15 years younger.Choose the Prorack S-Wing roof bars for flexibility and style. Was everything I had hope it would be.from the ease of ordering, to speed of delivery, to packaging and to quality and ease of installation this purchase exceeded every expectation.
Hugh Mirmelstein from Providence Forge, VA United States I ordered the top but never got the headliner at which I paid $135 for. Ronnell Peterson from Aiken, SC United Statesġ of 1 people found the following review helpful:
Kept top open slightly to dry and used every clamp I had (8) plus my wife's potato chip bag clips to ensure the roof bonded properly. Contract cement was slow to dry, so ended up fitting and refitting to get placement just right. Placement must be just right to get a tight fit when closed, but unable to close until contact cement is dry. cementing the front of the top to the frame.
Might have been easier to raise rear windows when removing/replacing (didn't think about it). Ended up scratching one of the rear windows. removing the rear bow from the roof trunk.
Took longer than expected (approx 14 hours. 0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:īrandon Taksa from Denver, NC United StatesĬould see daylight through the original 2003 roof and was getting water inside.